Chapter 23 - grinning travel gods - Explorer again
Once it had been decided that the Dickasons were not cut out to be snowbirds, conversations over dinner often included debates over what destinations should be in the ‘top five.’ Partly stimulated by the arrival of A&K brochures in the mail, discussions centred on Antarctica became common. The prospect was intimidating on several levels: duration and number of flights, extra gear needed, weather [and twice crossing the roughest ocean in the world], and of course, cost. On the positive side, Les thought it would be an interesting history-making journey to be likely the first Dickason on the continent since Seaman Harry Dickason with Scott’s Northern Party. Additionally we had retired early from working so that we could be adventurous while we still were physically capable.
A cruise down from the South Island of New Zealand was considered, especially as it might include a visit to the cairn commemorating the ice-cave of Seaman Harry Dickason fame, but the five day crossing of the Southern Ocean each way was a distinct drawback. Whilst on board Explorer for the Maritime Britain cruise, both Cruise Director Peter and Expedition Leader Kim recommended the longer [and more costly] Explorer trip which included a South Georgia Island visit, but that also meant added exposure to more sea days. The Dickasons turned to the shorter [and cheaper] cruise starting in the Falkland Islands in late December, spending six days with landings on the Antarctic Peninsula and the South Shetland Islands before docking in early January in Ushuaia, Argentina. It was booked, in the same lower deck mid-ships cabin 310 as for the Maritime Britain cruise.
Typical of an A&K adventure, it began with all accommodation, meals and flights before and after the cruise, this time starting in Santiago, Chile. Our reservation with A&K included a shuttle from the airport in Santiago, a tour of the city, dinner and hotel overnight, shuttle to the airport and flight from Santiago to the main Falkland Island, and tour there and shuttle bus to Explorer. A flight from Ushuaia to Santiago completed the A&K obligation.The DIckasons made reservations for the balance of the journey: flights from Vancouver to Santiago [starting on December 20th 2001, via Toronto and an overnight in Miami], and from Santiago, through Miami and a direct flight to Vancouver to return on January 5, 2002.
Preparation for this expedition was spread over several months. Reference books on geography, marine and bird life, and history were borrowed and read. Contact was made by e-mail with some of the friends from the earlier Explorer cruise to encourage them to join us. One of the lecturers on the previous Explorer cruise, Mike, who was a successful birding artist, asked us if we would take a supply of his brochures with us to be distributed to interested travellers on board. Mike also sent a list of specific birds and asked Les to take photographs of them if possible and send them to him after the trip.
Friends in Camera Clubs were consulted - what film to use, what format to use? The eventual decision was to take only slide film - lots of it - and recommendations were given on how to cope with using a camera in the cold, and when the background would often be a very bright white. Telephoto lenses, ziplock bags and finger-free mittens were collected, and spare camera batteries too.
A&K sent lists of clothing to take. Each passenger would receive the mandatory red parka on board, and backpacks too for Zodiac landings. Pat and Les shopped where necessary at Mountain Equipment Co-op and Capital Iron for boots, socks, glove and sock liners and adjustable walking poles. The wardrobe and drawers at home were checked for long-johns, caps, hats, scarves and waterproof outer gear large enough to go over the multi-layers of clothing required for warmth. When deficiencies were found, shopping continued. Without explanation the A&K list mysteriously included a swimsuit - which Les packed thinking it might be used in the ship’s sauna or the hotel in Santiago.
To prepare physically for difficult landings from Zodiacs, and for walking in snow and ice, the Dickasons donned winter gear in November and December and walked some rocky trails in nearby parks, and of course up and down the Edgewood hill. The adjustable poles, one each, were used for practice.
By the middle of December, all seemed ready, and with a wish for suitable weather in Vancouver and Toronto, the Dickasons packed to make the huge pile of clothing and equipment on the bed fit the suitcases and green A&K carry-on bags.
The effects of 9/11 were still evident at YVR at check-in for the red-eye to Toronto. One security inspector asked permission to open Les’ camera, and when he found Pat’s ‘point and shoot,’ he turned it on, pointed it, and took a picture along with the explanation “just want to make sure it is a real camera.” As we put our shoes back on, we wondered what might have happened if it had been a bomb disguised as a camera?
Travel gods smiled with good weather at YVR and in Toronto as on-time flights connected and a landing in Miami was completed. Unfortunately no flight left Miami for Santiago until 11.30pm the following day, but it was possible to extend our stay at the airport hotel for an extra 6 hours past normal check-out time, and we did that. After a solid night’s sleep and a breakfast in one of the hotel’s cafes, the morning was spent on the rooftop, where the pool, the sun, and the day-pass members of the fitness club provided relaxation and people-watching.
The front desk at the hotel advised being at the check-in counter four hours before the flight due to ‘increased security’ - and there was one amusing incident as the Dickasons left the hotel and entered the hallways of Miami airport. Through the sliding doors from the road outside came a lady [in her nineties?] in a wheelchair pushed by a young relative. As she entered the concourse, she loudly asked, “Oh dear, are all of these people going to San Francisco too?”
Security was slow - for the first time, all Dickason belts and shoes were removed, and pat-downs, though random, were common. Les was asked to stand on one leg [?], cases for spare glasses were opened, and each lens case in the camera bag was examined. However, most concerned were in a co-operative mood, and a quiet flight left for Santiago a few minutes early.
A friendly A&K greeter at the luggage carousel was welcoming, and along with some dozen others with green A&K bags we trooped out to an air-conditioned bus while two porters loaded the many, heavy suitcases onto a trolley and transferred them to a van bound for our hotel.
An informative driver/guide threaded his way through very heavy traffic to a few main sights of this huge, sprawling city with heavy smog hanging overhead. From one vantage point, San Cristobal Hill, we saw the strange purplish colour of the water in the Mapocho River - silt washing down from the mountains and the glaciers. A stop for a wine-tasting of some wonderful high-end Chilean wines was revealing - Caballa Loco #5 in particular showed great flavour and aging potential though expensive, but none of the passengers were about to buy wine with a flight south due the next day.
Check-in at the Hyatt Regency was taken care of by A&K - our airport greeter had a small table in a conference room, gave us keys and vouchers for dinner and breakfast, and an
itinerary for the evening and following morning. Just as in the UK, no detail was left to chance. The hotel was tall, modern, and very impressive. From the landing on our floor [24th?] the grand piano in the atrium below looked like a miniature.
At dinner, the A&K numbers had grown to around twenty, and while each couple dined separately in the buffet dining room, some introductions were made as those from the bus tour met the ‘newcomers.’ The restaurant specialized in Thai food and calamari with five spices, salmon and crab cakes, swordfish with a prawn sauce accompanied by a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and followed by a dessert flan and strong coffee had everyone satiated and yawning..... anticipating a 5.30am call for breakfast.
The Lan Chile flight from Santiago to the Port Stanley Airport in the Falkland Islands was quite possibly the most scenic commercial flight yet taken. For the first hour, in cloudless sky, the plane flew south over a Chilean valley between the coast mountains to the west and the Andes to the east. Ice-cream cone peaks, volcanoes, and agriculture along rivers dominated. The plane changed course to cross the steep Andes, and the view changed to vivid green glacial lakes, the Argentinean version of the fertile valleys, but near the coast the landscape changed abruptly to barren depressions, mineral coloured lakes and salty pools. After our flight crossed the coast, clouds covered the ocean below and did not part until just after noon when the west Falklands were visible.
After the A&K passengers and luggage were loaded on the tour bus, our guide, Phil, said; “There are no trees, and it is very windy on the Falklands: the bus ride will be more than 45 minutes, so if you need a toilet, go here - because it is very windy and there are no trees on the Falklands.” Almost half of the passengers took the advice. During the remainder of the bus tour/ride into Stanley, Phil informed and entertained in the same droll manner.
Among his highlights were stone runs and snake plants, unique to the Falklands - the former being rocks and stones which, when frozen are pushed down by mud and water, and they grind continually producing smaller stones which go lower [like smaller pieces of cereal in a package] so the runs are always moving very slowly. Snake plants grow on the surface and stretch with the motion. The photo at right shows a stone run - and no trees. He also spoke of the minefields - a residue of the Falkland Islands war. He explained that penguins were so light that they could walk across a minefield, but if we were to see three-legged sheep, stupidly they had found a way inside the minefield fences. On the Islands, the butchers did not meet the European Economic Council standard which required stunning before killing. For this reason, for the 1500 people on the base, lamb had to be imported from NZ, turkeys from the US. Similarly milk is not pasteurized on the Islands, so dairy products must be flown in from Chile. Phil’s comments indicated that he hated the bureaucratic EEC.
Apparently, though the Falklands receive rain on almost 300 days in the year, this was the dry season, as can be seen in the photograph of the main road through Stanley. The smoke that could be seen from the bus was from fires accidentally lit, fanned by wind, and now burning in the underground peat bogs.
Phil declared that though Stanley shops normally close on a Sunday, today had been declared a ‘tourist’ day because Explorer was in port, and shops would be open.
Finally off the bus, all enjoyed lunch at the Uplands Goose Hotel, and given time to explore, the Dickasons inspected the
Exploding Ordinance Device Museum, bought stamps at the Post Office and postcards at the Pink Shop, “Harrod’s of the High Seas,” run by the first wife of Tony, one of the lecturers on Explorer during our first cruise.
As the clouds increased and the wind started to howl, the tourists re-grouped and the bus took us to the port where we boarded Explorer for Cruise #133. There was a squeal from the ship as Les and Pat left the bus - Kim ran down the gangway and gave each of us a big hug as a welcome. She gestured to the bridge wing, where Captain Uli saluted and grinned upon seeing us again. A bit of concern crept in when we made it to the front of the check-in line to find Peter, again as Cruise Director, distributing keys and collecting passports. He leaned in and quietly told us that upon seeing our names on the passenger list, he had given us an up-grade at no extra charge. We almost complained - after all we wanted to be mid-ships and on a low deck - but the cabin he had assigned was literally one deck above the one we had before, and we realized we could live with that, and we went below.
After un-packing, the Dickasons set off to become re-acquainted with Explorer, and discovered other passengers on deck wearing the red parkas which had been arrayed on the bed in each cabin. Lifeboat drill was mandatory, and all passengers assembled after that to hear Peter and Kim make their introductions of staff and lecturer/Zodiac drivers. The photo shows Port Stanley from the deck of Explorer.
Our departure was delayed - the wind had increased and swung around to be beam on to the ship. No tugs were available to assist, and Captain Uli did not want to risk forcing Explorer out into the channel against the wind. He waited until the winds abated, while passengers ate a first dinner aboard. The Dickasons received a royal welcome from Gabor, the Maitre D’, wearing another crazy tie, and with his infectious grin still in place. Finally the whistle blew, and Explorer steamed away from the dock and set sail for Saunders Island in the western Falklands. After such a long day, and with Explorer rolling in the swell, very early that first night she was a quiet ship.
Before turning in, Les was surprised to meet Alastair in the lounge. He had been in uniform as Purser on Explorer around Britain, but he was wearing the blue tag of a passenger and explained, over a drink, that he had always wanted to see Antarctica
as a passenger not staff [and have a regular cabin], and when his holidays from Explorer coincided with this cruise and he had learned there were unsold cabins, he jumped at the chance and paid his [discounted] fare and had flown to Stanley the previous day and was happy to be on board out of uniform.
[The photo taken in Stanley above will be one of the last included in the text. Many of the slides taken on the trip were eventually scanned and digitized and there was some loss of quality in the process. Intermittently through the balance of the chapter collage pages will include photos, with captions, referring to the previous pages of text.]
The plan for the next morning was to land at Saunders Island but, though Kim took a Zodiac to shore to check, the landing was cancelled because of high winds in the bay. Before Explorer moved off to the west towards Carcass Island, some dolphins presented quite a show as consolation as they rode the wake of Kim’s rubber ducky as she returned to re-board.
The plan for the next morning was to land at Saunders Island but, though Kim took a Zodiac to shore to check, the landing was cancelled because of high winds in the bay. Before Explorer moved off to the west towards Carcass Island, some dolphins presented quite a show as consolation as they rode the wake of Kim’s rubber ducky as she returned to re-board.
On the short cruise to Carcass Is., passengers spent time becoming acquainted. Explorer did not have a full complement of passengers [96] - instead a total of 78, with 60 of those from the US, 14 from Europe, 2 from Peru, and 2 Canadians. Being Christmas holidays, 10 passengers were of school age - 2 of them college students, the rest spread from 9 to 16 years old. A common question asked over the first three or four days was some version of “why did you decide on Antarctica?” and the answers were varied. For some it was the ‘seventh continent;’ for others they had been inspired by the history of Scott, Shackleton and other explorers; for some it was due to previous experiences with A&K.
The first landing was a relatively tame one as the Zodiacs ran up onto a beach on Carcass Island. The air temperature was near 10C, and so, though the red parkas were worn by many, boots were exchanged for hiking shoes on the beach and the boots were left with life-jackets as the 3km walk around the bay began with lecturer Trip leading the way and pointing out a remarkable variety of bird life in a very short time.
A few hundred metres along, Magellanic penguins were sunning beside their burrows, then a Gentoo penguin colony which included small and larger chicks was next. Those watching were amused as ‘nest robbing’ was observed - with Gentoos stealing rocks from other penguin’s nests to improve their own. Trip informed us that the Gentoos had nests close together to provide protection from predators such as skuas and striated caracaras. No sooner had he mentioned the latter than one landed on a nearby rock and we could see its vicious beak. Some passengers had to stop to change film already and the group had not yet reached the settlement on the island.
There, in the tussock grass, we spied Upland geese and their goslings, and in an open area, several Kelp geese. On the pavement in front of the McGill family
home, tiny Tussac birds were everywhere, and Les almost trod on one as it dragged a worm out of a hole. Tea was provided in the house, and this experience with Falkland islander hospitality included homemade cakes, biscuits and scones.
On the shorter walk back to our Zodiacs, our third penguin type of the day was seen - Rockhoppers [nicknamed rockstars by one of the lecturers] with their distinctive yellow eye-stripes and their spiky head feathers. They did hop from one rock to the next when heading to the ocean, and were particularly inquisitive. They provided the first test of one of Kim’s wildlife rules: “do not approach within two metres” [though she did add with a smile, ‘if you stand still, something may approach you and not know this rule’]. One family from Michigan, with two young children, sat very still and soon had a Rockhopper ‘checking them out.’
While we waited for a Zodiac ride, there were more bird sightings; Patagonian crested ducks, two types of oyster catchers, with cormorants and petrels flying overhead. The first landing had been a bird watcher’s paradise.
After bracing spray on the ride back to Explorer, it was time to shower and change for the Captain’s welcome cocktail party. Uli was wearing what we thought were Christmas socks - one red, one green - but he joked that he wore them to help him remember the navigation lights out in the narrow channel between the islands. Dickasons had been invited to sit at the Captain’s table for the Christmas Eve dinner - across the table from Uli and Kim, and a surprise guest, Tony, next to Pat. He had been a lecturer on our first Explorer cruise, and, living in the Falklands, had been invited on board for the special dinner.
And, special it was. After appetizers including salmon caviar with Cava to drink in the lounge, we sat to enjoy a seven course banquet and the Austrian chef, Josef, put on a culinary show. Stuffed lobster tails with a Christmas salsa to begin; cappuccino of pumpkin and coriander soup; Caesar salad with chorizo; a Cassis sherbet; grilled Beagle Channel salmon with Canadian wild rice; roast Kansas striploin with Yorkshire pudding and seasonal vegetables; finally a yule log. Uli had specially ordered the wines for our table - a Traminer and an aged Malbec both from Argentina. Continuing his tradition, he had an Aquavit poured and drunk with eye contact toasts to end the dinner. We remembered our last night on our first cruise when he smiled and looked at us as we made a toast to another cruise on Explorer.
While coffee and petit fours were served, the staff and crew led a very merry singing of carols interspersed with Christmas readings by Cruise Director Peter and others. Who could possibly have imagined a better way to spend an evening anchored off the Falkland Islands?
The Dickasons had packed presents for Captain Uli [BC white wine], Kim [licorice all-sorts], Gabor [tie with stylized Maple Leaf] and Peter [single malt scotch], and these were distributed as the evening concluded. Back in the cabin, we found a present from A&K - the book “Ship in the Wilderness - voyages of the MS Explorer” - and slept very soundly after an exciting start to Cruise #133.
Christmas morning was bright, sunny, and the forecast was for a high of 13C. The Zodiac landing on New Island was on a sandy beach, alongside a wreck of a pre-World War II minesweeper. A very short walk brought our Zodiac load to another bird-watcher’s paradise: blue-eyed cormorants on their nests made of a few twigs, at least five thousand Rockhopper penguins with large chicks, steamer ducks, black-browed albatross [some gliding on their 220 cm wingspan, others nesting with chicks visible], geese again, pintada ducks, skuas and caracaras overhead waiting to swoop on any available chicks of careless penguins.
Sitting quietly on the grass, the Dickasons watched the social dynamics of the birds and their families. Some penguins were stealing rocks again, others were feeding chicks, and we noticed that when a penguin had more than one chick, the alpha [larger] chick was fed first and the beta chick might or might not receive any regurgitated food. When a wandering penguin came too close to a family, one of the parents would lower its head and charge at the intruder. Some of the larger albatross chicks were doing a version of what appeared to be pretend mating. Cormorants on the nest fussed to tidy the few scraggly sticks on which they were sitting.
Too soon for the bird-watchers, it was back on board for Christmas lunch which included a buffet with choices of goose or lamb from the Falklands, Argentinean roast beef and Virginia ham. The Dickasons sat with Tim, the history lecturer and he indicated that he had noticed the spelling of our surname and wondered if we knew of Seaman Harry Dickason. He was familiar with the winter in the ice-cave story and promised to include a version of the saga in one of his lectures on Scott - and he had seen the play Antarctica when it played in Texas. When Les offered some of his notes on Seaman Harry, Tim was eager to meet again to discuss them.
During lunch, Uli had moved our ship to the north side of New Island and a short, windy Zodiac ride and wet landing followed. Over a grassy knoll there was a surprise - in the midst of a huge Gentoo rookery were six taller penguins with yellow head markings - King penguins - which were sitting on nests surrounded by the smaller Gentoos. Les used the full telephoto lens for the first time to capture the scene. Further along we saw Tony’s Guest House - apparently the lecturer/photographer who lived on New Island actually rented out the small shack which was within sight of this colony, and right beside one of the paths the Gentoos used to reach the ocean [free lamb included in the rental].
Mulled wine was offered as we boarded after the damp, chilly ride back to Explorer and at the recap in the Lounge with Kim and other lecturers the excitement grew as all passengers realized that this weighing of anchor was the last in the Falklands. The Drake Passage crossing was next, and then Antarctica. An early dinner from Chef Josef’s staff was again impressive beginning with Stanley Fish Market Selection of seafoods as appetizers, cream of Celeriac soup, palm heart
salad, creme de menthe sherbet, seared halibut, roast turkey, and a traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce and fresh berries. Peter tapped Les on the shoulder at the end of the meal and asked him if he could return to the dining room in twenty minutes wearing a shirt and tie. Mystified, Les agreed, and Pat headed to the lounge to read and chat with other passengers. Some went to the lecture hall to watch the video of “How the Grinch Stole Christmas.”
Suitably attired and back in the dining room, Les found that he, two other passengers who had sailed on Explorer before, Alastair, the lecturers and Peter were to prepare the tables and serve Christmas dinner for the Explorer’s crew. After some uniform swapping, duties were assigned and while the others set about bringing courses from the kitchen, Les, in the assigned role of sommelier, opened bottles and served wine to the crew and the Captain, who complimented Les for serving the wine with the label on the top of the bottle [father-in-law George’s training of course], and on pouring with ‘no drips.’
In the Lounge, Les joined Pat with Rob, the whale expert from north Vancouver Island and Trip, the bird specialist, who spooked us with tales of previous Drake crossings. Trip was optimistic about the first 200 km given the lack of wind as we left the Falklands still somewhat sheltered by South America, but suggested that when we reached 56 degrees South, the westerly normally blew strongly and we might pay the “Drake Tax” in terms of sea-sickness.
But the travel gods really did have a wide grin for #133 - overnight the wind diminished and for Explorer’s first full day sailing almost due south [course of 177 degrees on the compass on the open bridge where a very relaxed First Officer was smiling at the moderate swell of less than 6 feet “we don’t have many mornings like this down here” he said]. High temperature for the day was however only 6C.
The 26th was a lecture day - first Henry whose specialties were plate tectonics and ice, and he explained why and how Antarctica came to the South Pole; then Trip the bird specialist who suggested to audience members that they bring parkas and binoculars so that after his presentation [with brilliant slides] he would take everyone on the outer decks to see what we could see and identify. Rob, the marine mammal biologist presented his slides and spoke on Whales and Seals of the Southern Oceans, and finally, Tim, the historian, gave a fascinating outline of the Imperial Trans- Antarctic Expedition featuring the open boat journey by Shackleton and five others to reach South Georgia,
where he organized a return to rescue all of his men who were on Elephant Island. At 9.30pm, a public address announcement came from the bridge. Explorer had crossed the Antarctic Convergence, the water temperature dropped from 5C to 1C, and overnight, officially we cruised into the ‘political’ Antarctic as we crossed the 60 degree latitude. The wind continued to drop and the night was another calm one.
December 27 began in a fog, but with a light breeze from the north, the sea was running a slight swell and Explorer was not rolling at all. The BBC documentary “Life in the Freezer” was shown before the lectures began. Henry spoke on the geology of Antarctica and of the changes in ice coverage which coincided with the hole in the ozone layer.
Those on the outer decks with Rob looking for whales alerted all passengers of three Fin whales which swam 50 metres off the starboard side. After blowing, they vanished just in time for lunch. Tim gave another fascinating lecture “The Strange Re-Union of Otto Nordenskjold” before a compulsory session with Expedition Leader Kim who familiarized us with the rules and regulations laid down by IAATO [International Association for Antarctic Tour Operators], then led the way to the outer decks where a boot washing party was arranged. This requirement ensured that there was no inadvertent transfer of substances foreign to the Antarctic environment. A smiling Gabor, wearing his Canadian motif tie, was serving hot mulled wine or spiced tea to passengers once their boots were cleaned.
With such a calm Drake crossing, Explorer was ahead of schedule and the Captain slowed the ship as Kim cancelled the day’s after-dinner recap session and instead invited all onto outer decks as the fog cleared. The first glimpse of Antarctica coincided with a humpback whale sighting. The foredeck was opened for passengers for the first time, and the bridge officer changed course to follow the whales as they fed nearby. After a wave from a fluke, the whales dived, and passengers adjourned to the bar or to bed early in anticipation of our first landing on the 28th.
The pre-breakfast walk Les took on deck was short on the 28th - only a 2 knot wind but a chilly -1C outside. But the sun broke through, and Kim announced that a Zodiac landing at Portal Point in Charlotte Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula would occur as scheduled. In every cabin, passengers went through a routine that would become familiar - long johns and other undergarments, liners then socks, a layer or two of winter clothes, water-proof pants, scarf, red Parka, backpack full of camera
gear in zip-lock bags, life vest, hat, boots and gloves - and then a waddle along to the gangway.
A short ride on very calm water, an easy landing on rocks, and we set foot on the southern continent. Immediately a photo co-op formed as passengers traded cameras for shots of themselves taken by others. Staff members had preceded the passengers and had put out red flags to guide our footsteps up the slope safely through the snow, to avoid having passengers fall into a crevasse or snowdrift.
Lecturers had brought plastic sheeting ashore, an impromptu toboggan run was created, and the younger passengers slid down on [and often off] the sheets. Atop the rise, the Dickasons looked across at the mountain range bathed in sunshine, a contrast to the grey water in the bay dotted with bluish coloured icebergs. Crawling like ants below were the ‘red penguins’ - the visitors in parkas.
As the line formed for the Zodiac cruise around the icebergs on the way back to the little red ship, Les noticed a number of passengers who had not been on Zodiacs when landing in the Falklands. Later, after asking Kim about their absence in the Falklands, she commented that this happened on every trip to the Antarctic. These passengers were ‘continent counters’ who had come to check off this continent from their list of seven.... she hinted that some of them might not go ashore at future landings either given that this was the only one actually on the continent.
Before we left the Zodiac landing, another routine was initiated. Kim had placed pot scrubbers in the snow, and before each passenger could board a Zodiac, Kim ordered him or her to turn around, hold up one boot after another as she scrubbed off any guano or small pebbles that might be carried back to the ship thereby avoiding smells on board, and polluting other landing sites.
Before lunch, after the Dickasons had completed the undressing routine and hung the waterproofs and parkas on the railing in the companionway to dry [not enough space in the cabin], Uli called passengers to the outer decks to witness the first cruise past ‘Uli’s bergs.’ He played classical music on the p.a. system, and numbered the special ones according to some system we never came to understand. Sei whales appeared, our first Weddell seals were spotted on snow on flatter icebergs, and all this before lunch on the first Antarctic day!
Gear back on, the Dickasons joined the line for the Zodiac ride to Cuverville Island just off the Peninsula, this time to a pebbly beach. For those wanting a long hike, a group was organized to head to the summit of the hill. For others, there was a gentle walk along the beach, with nesting breeding birds, and a large Gentoo rookery to visit.
The rookery was on the bare rocks, and with the wind in the right [wrong?] direction the smell was powerful. Paths to and from ocean were covered in red guano - the small shrimp the Gentoos eat providing the colour. As penguins returned from feeding, they located their mates by the braying calls they made.
That evening, as Explorer sailed through the Errera Channel, the scenery was majestic with 3000 to 4000 foot peaks glowing pink in the sunshine. At recap, each lecturer commented on the great day and the Drake “Lake” crossing of the previous two days, Kim asked for the submission of limericks based on the word Explorer, and promised an exceptional day ahead if weather and ice permitted.
Les spent more time between events on the open bridge. With such calm weather, there was no ‘closed’ sign on the door, and officers of the watch, or Uli or Kim were ever ready to answer questions, and the view ahead was always interesting. After dinner on the 28th, Uli thanked Les for the Christmas present and for assisting at the crew Christmas dinner, and he and Kim had a discussion concerning the route for the 29th, using the term E.T. from time to time. When Les queried the use of the abbreviation, Kim explained it was staff code for other tourist ships [competitors] in the area. On a later bridge visit, Kim was using the radio to co-operate with E.T.s to ensure they did not schedule landings to coincide with ours.
Returning to the lounge, Les found a jubilant Alastair who had persuaded the replacement Purser to include two different single malt scotches in the ‘free list’ at the bar.....so along with a delightful pair from the Falkland Islands, Chris and Mike, Alastair and Les sat and enjoyed a ‘good pour’ of one of them - Glenmorangie.
The 29th showed the gods were still smiling if not grinning as before. The sun shone, it was 1C as Kim woke the ship early to encourage everyone to come on deck as Explorer entered the Lemaire Channel. This stretch of water between the peninsula and Booth Island is often called “Kodak Alley” - a fitting description for what is arguably the most beautiful scenery in Antarctica. After passing two peaks [nicknamed Oona’s tits] Explorer entered the narrow channel with snow covered ice-cream cone peaks of up to 3000 feet on either side. Observing other passengers during any five minute period one would see camera backs open and film changing in every direction as the merry band of photographers snapped and clicked.
However, Uli’s plan to head to the south end of the channel and so cross the Antarctic Circle at 66 degrees S was not to be. Wind had blown ice into a solid barrier which blocked the end of the channel. Our furthest progress south was announced as 65 degrees and 4 minutes as Explorer turned slowly and headed north again.
The next channel was almost as spectacular as Lemaire and a course was charted between islands to reach Fort Lockroy. This was a British base, built in 1944 and recently restored by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust [as a museum, with post office and gift shop]. It is staffed each summer by three volunteers. The landing was on a ledge with a steep, icy, rocky path up to the house - the Dickasons blessed their telescopic walking sticks on that climb.
The museum gave a feeling of what it must have been like to live in a base during a winter in the 50s and 60s. Of particular interest to Les was the radio room
where the ‘ham’ operating back then had pinned up postcards from other ‘hams’ from around the world. Les was not able to find a card with VK3RR - his father’s call sign - but there were others that Les was sure he had seen on the wall in his dad’s radio room in Horsham in the 50s.
Passengers from Explorer had come prepared with postcards to mail in the tiny post office - others bought Antarctica stamps to take back to philatelist friends. The gift shop was the first retail outlet on land seen by shoppers since Stanley, so it did a roaring trade in souvenirs, t-shirts and postcards.
Outside, there was a wooden sledge and snow shoes from the early days of Fort Lockroy. Kim and other Zodiac drivers had been very busy setting out flags across sea ice so that we could have this unique experience and also see the Weddell seals napping at the end of the walk. At times we had to jump crevasses which were at least 10 feet deep down to the water below the ice.
Having taken the walk on the sea ice, Les was on one of the last two Zodiacs to leave the base, and by then the wind had changed and intensified. The ride back was on choppy seas, spray bounced into the Zodiac from every wave, and the parka, waterproofs, hat and boots were soaked, and Les’ teeth chattered with the wind chill taking the temperature down sharply.
Lunch was especially warming after that, and outside, 30 to 40 knot winds whipped off the islands sending snow swirling in all directions as Explorer slowly steamed towards our next destination, Wilhelmina Bay. After some relaxation time on board, and a special Strudel tea, Kim invited us to bundle up, put on extra layers, and head to the gangway for a Zodiac cruise through the icebergs in this sheltered bay.
An Antarctic summer cruise on a Zodiac was bone-chilling, with snow swirling. The Dickasons had Kirste [shop manager and helper around Explorer] as driver, and Henry, the ice specialist on board. Henry explained the odd shapes of some of the huge bergs [some trapped on rocks and etched with tide lines, others having flipped over after erosion]. He also insisted, when our Zodiac was well away from any others, that Kirste cut the motor and allow the Zodiac to drift. The silence amongst the bergy bits, near huge blue icebergs, was eerie but magical.
Once pointed back towards Explorer [hidden in the slowly drifting snow] Les’ nose twitched and he swore he could smell sausages. Others on board the Zodiac laughed, but when Explorer was finally visible, it appeared to have laundry strung on lines over the back deck. As we neared the gangway, the laundry was seen to be flags, of all the nations represented on board, and Gabor, the Maitre D’ was overseeing the barbecues where ribs, sausages, vegetables on skewers, baked potatoes, and steaks were being cooked for our summer outdoor feast - in the snow.
The Dickasons took advantage of the seating in the lecture hall instead of sitting out on the deck with the snow falling, though about half the passengers stayed outside to eat.
A Zodiac driver had steered the rubber ducky against a “black iceberg’ during the cruise, and subsequently chopped off a piece of ice which was displayed in the bar and used later that evening. Those drinking Scotch on the rocks were able to boast of their million year old ice in their drinks.
Les and Alastair drank the other single malt on the free list - Glendronach - and planned a special table for dinner the following evening, with the Dickasons, Alastair and Kim - a re-union of sorts of the Maritime Britain cruise on Explorer. We planned to invite Uli too, but he had a commitment with another of his Captain’s table dinners. Les made a late night trip to the bridge where the officer of the watch commented: “just as well we are not in Drake now with this 40 to 60 knot wind blowing.”
The 30th of December began with slightly diminished winds, a temperature of just 1C at 60 degrees south, with Explorer nearly at the tip of the Antarctic peninsula, aiming for Gourdin Island for a possible landing. Tim, the historian gave a lecture on Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition. During the lecture most passengers noticed the rolling of the ship, and when we returned to the outer deck the katabatic wind was whistling off the ice shelves at 70 knots, and dashing waves over smaller icebergs as we passed. The first officer played chamber music as passengers photographed the very different views from the decks. The landing at Gourdin Island was cancelled, and Explorer turned towards a more sheltered Joinville Island.
Rob and Stephanie combined forces to provide a lecture on the history of the whaling industry in the southern oceans, and suddenly it was time to put on the gear for a Zodiac trip into Kinnes Cove. On the ride into the bay, we heard the raucous call of thousands of Adelie penguins. Some were catching a lift on the drifting icebergs, and once passengers landed, it was possible to observe the Adelies as they brayed, protected chicks of all sizes, and tobogganed down the gentle slopes of snow. For the first time the bird-watchers saw the snowy sheathbills - smaller than gulls, and white as the name implies.
When the hike up the hill was completed, and the Dickasons clambered on a Zodiac, our driver discovered that Uli had re-positioned Explorer, and we enjoyed a much longer ride back to the ship. However, once in dry clothes aboard it was time for a surprise at recap before dinner. The travel gods must have taken a short holiday from the grinning and smiling so far.
The Captain came to recap to inform us that a hole in the outer hull of Explorer had been found. It was very tiny, no threat to the fuel or water supply, but for safety, divers had been alerted in Ushuaia and we had to be there 12 hours early to fit their schedule. Consequently, Explorer would head north on the evening of December 31st instead of a day later.
A&K was arranging a day of activities for passengers given that we would be in Ushuaia for 36 hours instead of 12, and adjustments would be made to the landings on the 31st so that most sites on the original itinerary would be visited.
Uli closed with “I swear I did not hit anything - and the lifeboats have not been unleashed.”
Kim gave a brief outline of the activities for the 31st - starting with a pre-breakfast, pre-dawn landing at Hannah Point, on Livingstone Island in the South Shetlands. As Uli was leaving the lounge, he said: “Best you not go to bed - stay up and party all night with friends.”
At our special re-union dinner with Kim and Alastair, naturally, the conversation began with a discussion of Explorer and our situation. Interestingly, we were all four aware that the next sailing out of Ushuaia was a charter - a multi-millionaire owner of a chocolate bar company, Mr. Hershey, had hired Explorer and his foundation had selected 85 secondary school students from across the US to be his guests on board. [We knew because our oft-mentioned friend Janet’s niece was one of the students.] Kim and Alastair suggested that this situation made it imperative that the hole be examined and repaired given that A&K would not want the publicity if a problem occurred with a charter as important as this one.
After the ship topic was exhausted, we returned to our dinner, the special wines Alastair and Les had chosen [a Sancerre and an aged Cabernet/Malbec], and our memories of the Maritime Britain cruise. Alastair made some interesting observations on the difference between being an officer or a passenger on Explorer -- suggesting it takes more energy to be a passenger. Meanwhile Kim encouraged Les to write his limericks using the new situation as theme, and knowing the alarm would sound at 3.15, all four of us retired early.
There were bleary eyes and rumbling tummies as the sun rose while three quarters of the passengers wandered ashore before breakfast on the last day of 2001, but the birds were wide awake and actively feeding in every direction. The elusive Macaroni penguin with its bright orange head plumes was sighted, along with Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins and the ubiquitous skuas overhead watching for chicks. Around the point, the guides pointed to the ‘wallow’ of elephant seals lying on the beach - moulting. It was difficult to stay and watch given the stench that rose from the dozing mass - a large male and several females - with penguins keeping a safe distance.
Gear off back on board, passengers were treated to the widest range of hot food served for breakfast so far. In the cabins, stewards had placed an information sheet - logistics for the great Antarctic Swim [the guidelines before the cruise suggested swimming suits - now we knew why!]. The ship re-positioned by passing through the narrow entrance to the flooded caldera hidden inside Deception Island, sailing past the ruins of whaling stations from early 1900s, and anchoring close to the steaming shore. The water along a short section of this coast is geo-thermally heated as a result of volcanic eruptions in the 60s, and soon brave souls in outlandish swimming gear, head coverings and footwear were heading down the gangway for the Zodiac rides.
Many spectators also rode ashore - as photographers and as carriers of towels, dressing gowns, and changes of clothing for the ‘swimmers’ who were soon sitting in the muddy, warm [sometimes hot] water. Stephanie, our Zodiac driver on the return trip said that normally there is teeth chattering, shivering, and swimmers huddled together for warmth. On this New Year’s Eve, the temperature had risen to a balmy 4C, there was no wind, and even those who had belly-flopped or swum out from the shore were smiling. Nevertheless the mulled wine was appreciated as Gabor appeared at the top of the gangway, flashing his bikini under his kimono - he claimed to have bathed with us in spirit. [That night, certificates appeared on the beds of those who had been foolhardy - commemorating the great Antarctic dip.]
While the swimmers changed, Explorer moved to its third anchorage of the morning - Telefon Bay. Once ashore, in hiking shoes not waterproof boots, passengers followed Henry and Trip across the gently sloping volcanic rock to the rim of the crater from where it was possible to see the caldera from the eruption of 1970. Trip took the energetic ones higher across a very barren landscape until we reached the waterfalls created by the melting ice above.
When changing out of the strangely dry outer gear ready for lunch the Dickasons found an invitation to Peter’s table for New Year’s Eve dinner. Apparently it was the Michigan couple’s turn at the Captain’s Table, and the parents had asked their boys Ty and Drew who they would like to dine with that night, and they named the Dickasons. Les had been Drew’s chess partner and Ty’s patience card game teacher in the lounge on several occasions during the previous week.
Before dinner, there was activity galore. First another, and final, landing in Antarctica; this time on Half Moon Island which was home to several rookeries of the Chinstrap penguin. This variety is small, distinctive [great to photograph because if the black chinstrap is in focus, the photo will be sharp] and very curious. When Les reached Ty and his mother waiting for the Zodiac ride, one little penguin approached, its eye on the logo on Ty’s mother’s pants. It startled all three of us by jumping on her leg, before standing next to her thigh and pecking at the white stitching on the black material.
The next Zodiac to reach the landing had Gillian as driver, and she gestured for the three of us to board quickly. Gillian left the beach, and instead of heading to Explorer, steered a few hundred metres down the shoreline where she stopped the Zodiac. She invited Ty to stand in the stern alongside her and asked if he would like to drive. When he excitedly accepted, Gillian explained the controls to him, and sat back to watch. Though he had not driven before, after some jerky accelerations to begin, Ty drove like an expert. Gillian was ready to take over if necessary as our craft neared the ship’s landing platform [and Ty’s mum closed her eyes], but Ty steered it perfectly alongside and cut the engine as a crew member on the landing secured the Zodiac. It was a very proud young man who thanked Gillian and climbed up the gangway - Les had photographed his exploits and later sent photos to the Kraniaks in Michigan.
The evening was truly one to remember. It began with an invitation to join the Captain in the theatre for a northern European tradition - watching the video of “Dinner for One.” Uli explained that across Scandinavia and Germany on December 31, TV stations play this hilarious black and white sketch starring comedians Freddie Frinton and May Warden - although only eighteen minutes long, it has become the most frequently repeated TV program ever. It was very well received by all and passengers were still smiling and giggling as Uli invited us to his cocktail party in the lounge, where Kir Royal was poured as his treat.
Dinner at Peter’s table featured Ty’s relating of the story of the chinstrap and his mother’s leg. Drew asked us each to tell a joke, and Peter soon had the boys in stitches with his stories from his days in the theatre in London. Peter’s choice for wine that night included Sancerre and a Pinot Noir from California, and Josef’s menu was limited to just six courses, with a promise of a midnight buffet to follow.
Peter and Les adjourned to the lounge with a healthy pour of Armagnac, where Peter excused himself - only to reappear in a corny costume minutes later as he and other crew members performed sketches they had written. Before the champagne was poured just before midnight, the ship began to roll as Explorer left the shelter of the islands and steamed north across the Drake Passage.
After counting down to 2002, singing of Auld Lang Syne, much hugging, kissing and hand-shaking, those passengers with any energy and appetite after such a long day went to the main lobby to sample Josef’s midnight buffet. Several hopeful toasts to another Drake “Lake” crossing were heard as the numbers quickly dwindled and the ship was quiet.
During the night, the north-east wind intensified, and when Les made an early morning visit to the bridge, the wind speed was up to 30 knots and the seas had a long swell which Explorer was dipping into with waves of up to 12 feet. Water was crashing impressively over the bow of the ship. Heading down to breakfast, Les spied a notice on the bulletin board “The Drake monster showing a little of its power this morning - what is it going to do?”
With few at breakfast, Gabor had time to chat: “my chair in my cabin is still upright - my crew slept in their beds last night. When my chair is not up, and my crew cannot sleep, that is when Drake is worst.” Movement around the ship was slow and using a hand to grab the ropes looped from beams in the ceiling was required for the first time to be sure of safe progress.
Henry gave his final lecture later in the morning - the changing ice conditions in the Antarctic - with some revealing slides showing the differences between the coverage over time. After lunch, on another visit to the bridge, Les heard Uli explain that in all his years crossing the Drake he had not seen a weather map such as that which had just arrived. Although there was a depression off to the west, there were five highs which seemed to be locking it into place - it might not continue towards us and Explorer might stay at 11 or 12 knots and slip through a gap in the highs. In answer to passenger questions, Uli told of crossings where he slowed the ship to 10 then 8 and even 5 knots - and sometimes had to change course, “head towards Australia for a day and wait for the storm to pass.” He scared some of those on the bridge by relating the story of the Bremen which was caught by waves of over 25 metres the previous year and lost a bridge wing, both engines and with the generator flooding and stopping.
But, while Trip and Kim were showing an A&K video promoting future cruises on Explorer the wind seemed to be calmer, and many passengers began emerging from their cabins for the first time that day. Kim suggested to the Dickasons that the logical next journey on Explorer should be the Amazon River cruise......
The recap that evening, with seas calm again, provided a chance for each lecturer to highlight the cruise from his or her perspective. Those who had visited Antarctica previously were unanimous that there had never been two crossings quite so calm both ways - Kim offered a life-time sea-pass if any guest could prove that he or she was responsible for the luck brought to Explorer.
Les visited the bridge again, and this time the helmsman and Uli were smiling and the photograph taken of the ocean was a huge contrast to the one taken that morning. The photographs from January 1st follow on the next page. Almost all passengers were present for dinner, some with healthy appetites after missing one or two meals that day.
At 9.30 Explorer crossed the Line of Convergence, the sea temperature jumped and the sunset was a sailor’s delight with a promise of smooth seas for the rest of the ship’s progress to Cape Horn, the Beagle Channel and Ushuaia.
It was very calm at breakfast on January 2nd, with an outside temperature approaching 5C. A letter from A&K President Scarlett was in the cabin offering us 10% off a future cruise to compensate for the altered itinerary. Trip gave his final lecture on Ocean Wanderers and provided excellent background on the lives at sea of albatrosses and petrels. Cape Horn was spotted in the distance soon after that
and Peter provided some disembarkation information in the lecture hall next, and passengers received itinerary packages with flight arrangements, tickets, tags and hotel bookings for the 4th.
Kim broadcast a call to the outer decks just before lunch as, right on the new schedule, Explorer was approaching the famous southern most tip of South America.
Uli brought his ship close to the sheer cliffs of rock, and as we left the Pacific and reached the Atlantic, he blew the horn. A poem, commemorating the lives of mariners lost in these waters was read on the p.a. system - another tradition of reaching Cape Horn. Most passengers had left their red parkas in the cabin - it was now a summery 8C on the deck.
Lecturer Stephanie stood beside the Dickasons and was alternately taking photos and smiling - she said she had never seen the Cape so tranquil in her years of crossings.
A remarkable video, “Around Cape Horn” was shown in the theatre with footage of the Peking, a four-master with 33 sails, rounding the Horn in 1929 with 80 foot high waves. Most passengers were glad not to have seen this movie before the cruise began. Henry followed with his last lecture on the implications for the future of the melting of the ice in Antarctica, and Tim finished his history series with “The last expedition of Wilson and Scott” during which he took a side-trip into the story of Scott’s Northern Party and specifically mentioned Seaman Harry Dickason and the winter spent by the six explorers in the ice cave.
The Dickasons spent time at the Captain’s last cocktail party in conversation with Chris and Mike, the British teachers from the Falklands. They planned to apply to teach in Germany next and wanted the Dickasons to visit. Kim read five limericks, and coincidentally, two were written by Chris, two by Mike and one by Les. Kim invited Les to take the microphone to read a sixth limerick - also written by Les - and it had been voted the winner. [The limerick is printed at the end of this chapter] Les took advantage of having the microphone to thank staff and crew of Explorer and called for three cheers.
The Dickasons, Chris and Mike took Les’ prize, a chilled bottle of Veuve Cliquot, to dinner and shared the bubbly with lecturers Henry and Tim. Mike had ordered special wines for the final dinner - a Dry Creek Chenin Blanc and a Langoa Barton 97 - with Aquavit to follow.
The pilot had boarded during dinner, and the temperature registered 9C as Explorer slowly headed through the Beagle Channel with a 5am docking in Ushuaia
on the schedule. On a sunny January 3rd we looked out at the mountains and the world’s southern most city at the tip of Argentina.
For a day that was not on the original schedule, A&K did remarkably well in providing an activity to substitute for the day lost in the Antarctic. A short walk in the dock area brought the passengers and lecturers to a luxurious catamaran which easily accommodated our group. With local lecturers using the p.a. system, the cat went back down the Channel, detouring to see local wildlife on islands or on the rocky shore.
Lunch, drinks and wine were complimentary on board as we headed to Haliburton, the oldest ranch in the area. At the ranch, staff divided us into small groups for tours of the farm, a nature park with very good signage [special attention to native plants], a shearing shed, and Natalie Goodall’s famous museum with its well-known collection of cetacean skeletons.
The ride back up the Channel found many Explorer passengers napping in the comfy lounge despite the sea lion colonies, Magellanic penguins and lighthouses pointed out by the enthusiastic guides.
Back in Ushuaia, almost half the passengers spent time in the city’s impressive downtown and dinner on board was sparsely attended. Names and addresses were exchanged over dinner and in the lounge afterwards given that departure times varied for the following day.
In typical A&K fashion, the morning for the Dickasons and another 15 or so passengers who were due to fly out of Ushuaia at 1.40pm on the 4th was well organized, comfortable and educational. Although breakfast was early and our farewell of staff and crew occurred before 7.30am, our luggage was collected, and we boarded a warm bus for a conducted tour of the city and then to the Tierra del Fuego National Park where we made several stops at viewpoints, and for marked nature trails.
Our delightful guide, Tammy, provided information concerning the flora and fauna, and at one stop where the Dickasons spotted a beaver lodge, she told us that the population of humans was 45 000, and that since the beaver had been imported,
their population had swelled to 45 000, and efforts were being made to control the spread of the pesky animal and stop the flooding caused by the dams.
At the airport, Immigration formalities and security were quickly dealt with and the A&K group from the bus joined regular passengers in the departure lounge. When the Lan Chile flight arrived at 12.30, the Dickasons watched the passengers disembarking, recognized young Rebecca in the student group, and Ingrid and Kevin, two lecturers from Maritime Britain who were joining Explorer for the charter. We waved at them, and they yelled best wishes to us through the glass barrier between the lounge and the alighting passengers.
Also in the departure lounge for our flight were Gabor and Alastair - the former to start holidays, Alastair to continue his. They quietly chatted with the Dickasons and brought them up-to-date on the mornings activities on Explorer before they left. The divers had inspected the hull, confirmed it was a small hole that needed repair - now or later. Radio messages had flown to and fro from Uli, the insurance companies, A&K, and engineers at a dry dock. Two courses of action were being considered: continue as planned with the charter to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands, or take Explorer up the coast of Argentina to a dry dock to do repairs and organize the students and their escorts for three days of touring the fjords and National Parks before boarding three days late in Ushuaia. The second choice, which we learned later was the one chosen, would result in dropping the South Georgia component of the cruise to reach the Falklands on time for cruise #135. Peter Graham, the Cruise Director, also due to start a vacation, was asked to remain on board and in Ushuaia to handle the public relations aspect of the delay.
Alastair admitted to feeling guilty because he was leaving while his replacement as Purser and Josef the chef had been told that 500 lbs of ordered fresh fruit, vegetables and salads were not on the Lan Chile plane flying into Ushuaia that morning [teenagers with too much luggage?], and they had five hours to chase around Ushuaia to find 500 lbs of supplies to replenish the stores.
At the airport in Santiago we said our goodbyes to almost half of the remaining passengers with green A&K bags, but a table had been reserved in a restaurant for those with time to wait for connecting flights. Larry and Sue from Chicago, Dave and Rose from a suburb of Chicago, Henry and the Dickasons went into a Chilean wine shop and bought red wines to take home, ate dinner together and planned a slide show re-union in Chicago when the Dickasons next visited the windy city, with details to be confirmed.
Reminiscing over dinner, we did a round table of what each considered a highlight. Almost all mentioned the quiet of Antarctica, and several spoke of views from land back to sea with the little red ship waiting for us at anchor.
To this day, the Dickasons put this 2001/2 journey at the top of the list of most stimulating and memorable of all travels taken..... the Amazon cruise on Explorer did
not eventuate because A&K sold the little red ship to Gap Adventures and she later sank in the Antarctic Ocean [without loss of life] in 2007.
In Les’ carry-on luggage were dozens of rolls of film which in Nanaimo were processed in batches to produce slides. A carousel of highlight slides of our travels on the edge of the highest, driest, windiest continent was organized, and shown to friends, Rotary Clubs, school students, Probus groups and others over the next several years. The carousel was also taken to Chicago for the re-union with the Illinois group represented at the dinner at the airport in Santiago. The slide show included maps to provide a context for the more than 20 000 miles of air travel, and the 2 300 nautical miles sailed by Explorer. The maps follow the limerick.
There once was Cruise ‘one-thirty-three’
Uli said the hull hole was wee,
Scarlett the President
Offered us ten percent
But if the Captain dons a lifejacket, I might just pee!
p.s. For another view of the photos, go to http://lesnpat.smugmug.com/
check out the scanned photos under “Antarctica on Explorer.”
p.p.s.The bird painting brochures from Mike DiGeorgio were taken south and made available on the cruise - and Les sent slides of birds as Mike had requested. A month later, a package arrived in the mail at 3377 - a print [number 23/300] of Mike’s painting of Puffins completed after the Maritime Britain cruise. Framed, it hangs in the 3377 living room.
